Of all Japan's samurai towns, Aizu-Wakamatsu carries the heaviest historical weight. When the new Meiji government forces surrounded Tsurugajo Castle in 1868, the Aizu domain chose to fight rather than surrender — and when defeat became inevitable, the young warriors of the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) killed themselves on a hilltop rather than be captured. Their story defines Aizu's identity to this day.
Tsurugajo Castle
Tsurugajo (Wakamatsu Castle) is Japan's only castle with red roof tiles — a distinctive feature visible from across the city. The current structure (reconstructed 1965) stands on original stone walls from the 14th century. The castle withstood a month-long bombardment during the 1868 Boshin War, finally surrendering when starvation rather than military defeat forced capitulation. The interior museum documents the Aizu domain's history and the battle; the upper floors offer views across the city toward surrounding mountains. Entry ¥420.
Byakkotai Memorial
On Iimoriyama Hill, the graves of 19 young samurai — members of the Byakkotai ("White Tiger Corps," a youth regiment) — face Tsurugajo Castle. On September 23, 1868, seeing smoke rising from the city (from fires, not from the still-standing castle), they believed the castle had fallen and took their own lives. One survived his self-inflicted wound. The memorial is one of Japan's most emotionally powerful historical sites — the youth of the dead, their devotion to the castle and domain, and the tragic misunderstanding make it genuinely moving.
Buke Yashiki Samurai Residence
The Aizu Buke Yashiki is a reconstructed samurai mansion — the residence of the Saigo family, senior retainers of the Aizu clan. The 38-room complex shows samurai domestic life: the lord's reception rooms, family quarters, kitchen, rice storage, and the family's collective suicide room (where family members killed themselves as the castle fell). The guided explanations (in Japanese with English pamphlet) cover the daily life alongside the dramatic final chapter. Entry ¥850.
Sake and Food
Aizu is one of Tohoku's finest sake-producing areas — the cold winters and pure snowmelt water produce particularly clean, refined sake. The Hoppy Kanagawa sake brewery offers tours in summer. Aizu-branded food specialties include Kitakata ramen (from nearby Kitakata city — a distinct style with flat, wavy noodles and clear shoyu broth), kozuyu (a light, vegetable-based traditional soup), and Aizu lacquerware (Aizu-nuri), one of Japan's three famous lacquerware traditions.
Getting There
From Tokyo, Tohoku Shinkansen to Kōriyama (55 minutes), then Banetsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu (1 hour 20 minutes). Total approximately 2.5 hours. JR Pass covers both segments. Alternatively, highway bus from Shinjuku direct to Aizu-Wakamatsu (3.5 hours, ¥3,500).
