Hakone is Tokyo's most popular day trip destination — a mountainous area 90 minutes southwest of the city with views of Mount Fuji, hot spring resorts, world-class outdoor sculpture, and a fun circular transport route. It can be done as a day trip, but the experience improves significantly with an overnight stay at a ryokan.
Getting There
The Romancecar Limited Express from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto takes about 85 minutes (¥2,340 reserved). Alternatively, take the JR Tokaido Line from Tokyo or Shinjuku to Odawara, then the Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto. The Hakone Free Pass (¥6,100 from Shinjuku, valid 2 days) covers round-trip Romancecar and unlimited rides on all Hakone transport — easily worth it for a day trip.
The Hakone Loop
The classic Hakone route uses multiple transport modes in a circuit. From Hakone-Yumoto, the rack railway climbs to Gora (35 minutes), a cable car ascends to Sounzan (10 minutes), a ropeway crosses the volcanic Owakudani valley to Togendai on Lake Ashi (25 minutes), and a sightseeing boat crosses the lake to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone. From there, buses return to Hakone-Yumoto or Odawara. The loop takes 4–5 hours if you skip attractions; a full day with stops.
Owakudani
The ropeway passes through Owakudani, an active volcanic zone with steaming vents and sulfurous fumes. A short walking trail leads to the black eggs (kuro-tamago) — hard-boiled eggs cooked in the sulfuric hot springs that turn the shells black. They cost ¥600 for 5 eggs and supposedly add 7 years to your life per egg. The station has exhibits on the volcanic geology. Note: the area occasionally closes due to volcanic activity — check before visiting.
Hakone Open Air Museum
A 7-hectare sculpture park with works by Picasso, Moore, Rodin, and major Japanese sculptors set against mountain scenery. It's one of Japan's finest art museums and a genuinely unexpected highlight of Hakone — plan 2 hours. Entry ¥1,600; covered by some versions of the Hakone Free Pass. Take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station.
Mount Fuji Views
Lake Ashi offers the iconic view: Fuji reflected in the lake, with a torii gate in the foreground. Clear views are most reliable in winter and early spring, before morning clouds develop. The Hakone Shrine torii standing in the lake (accessible by boat from Moto-Hakone pier) is the most photographed spot. Arrive early — clouds typically build by mid-morning.
Onsen
Hakone's primary draw for Japanese visitors is its hot springs. Day visitors can use onsen facilities at most hotels and ryokan for a fee (¥1,000–¥2,000). Tenzan Tohji-kyo in Hakone-Yumoto is a popular public bath complex (¥1,400). If staying overnight, most ryokan include onsen access with the room rate.
Practical Tips
Buy the Hakone Free Pass before you start — it saves money and simplifies payment throughout the day. The ropeway frequently sells out on peak weekends; arrive early or book online. Weekday visits are significantly less crowded. Pack layers — mountain temperatures are 5–8°C cooler than Tokyo. If staying overnight, book ryokan 1–3 months in advance for peak periods.
Getting to Hakone from Tokyo
The most comfortable route is the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, about 85 minutes. The Hakone Free Pass (around ¥6,100 for 2 days from Shinjuku) is the smart buy: it covers the round trip plus unlimited use of the region's trains, cablecar, ropeway, pirate ship and buses. If you hold a JR Pass, you can instead take the Shinkansen to Odawara and switch to local Hakone transport.
The Classic Hakone Loop
Hakone is best done as a scenic circuit: ride the switchback Tozan Railway up to Gora, take the cablecar and then the ropeway over the volcanic valley of Owakudani (famous for black eggs boiled in the hot springs), descend to Lake Ashi for a "pirate ship" cruise, and finish at the lakeside Hakone Shrine with its torii gate standing in the water. On clear mornings, especially in winter, Mt. Fuji rises behind the lake.
Onsen & Art
Hakone is one of Japan's great hot-spring towns. Many ryokan offer day-use onsen (¥1,000–¥2,000) if you're not staying overnight. Between soaks, the Hakone Open-Air Museum and the Pola Museum of Art are worth the stop.
Day-Trip Tips
- Start early — Fuji views and the ropeway are clearest in the morning, and the loop takes most of a day.
- Travel light; forward big luggage from Tokyo so you're not hauling it on the mountain trains.
- Owakudani occasionally closes for volcanic activity — check status before you go.