Sushi in Japan is both extremely simple (eat what the chef puts in front of you) and subtly complex (the right way to eat each piece maximizes what the chef intended). Here's everything you need to know.
Counter vs Table: Why Counter Is Better
At a traditional sushi restaurant, counter seats (カウンター, kaunta) provide a direct relationship with the itamae (sushi chef) — you watch each piece prepared, receive it directly, and can ask questions about the fish. Table seats receive the same sushi but delivered by a server, without the interaction. For omakase (chef's selection) dining, counter is the only appropriate format. For kaiten (conveyor) dining, tables are equally good.
Omakase: The Full Experience
Omakase (おまかせ, "I leave it to you") means you trust the chef to serve what's best that day. The chef selects pieces based on the day's fish quality, season, and your apparent preferences. A typical omakase at a mid-range Tokyo counter runs 12–15 pieces over 60–90 minutes, priced ¥10,000–30,000. The pieces move from lighter (white fish, squid) through fattier (tuna progression, salmon) to sweet (egg, dessert-like final piece). At high-end counters, the chef watches your pace and prepares the next piece when you've finished the previous one. Never rush; never hold pieces waiting to photograph every item.
How to Eat Each Piece
Nigiri sushi (rice + fish): eat in one or two bites, immediately when served. Fish deteriorates after 30 seconds at room temperature; the temperature contrast between warm-body-temperature rice and cool-refrigerator fish is part of the design. You may eat with fingers or chopsticks — both are correct. Never submerge the rice in soy sauce — the rice absorbs too much and the salt overwhelms the fish. Instead, turn the piece upside down and dip just the fish lightly into soy (only if needed — many pieces are pre-seasoned by the chef). Wasabi is often applied directly to the fish by the chef; don't add extra unless you have strong preference.
Types of Sushi to Know
Nigiri: Formed rice with fish draped over it — the classic and most common. Gunkan-maki: "Battleship roll" — a ring of nori holding loose toppings (ikura roe, uni sea urchin) on rice. Temaki: Hand-rolled cone of nori with rice and fillings — eat immediately before the nori softens. Chirashi: Scattered sushi — fish arranged over a bowl of sushi rice; restaurant lunch format, less ceremonial.
Price Tiers
¥1,000–3,000: Kaiten (conveyor) chains (Sushiro, Hamazushi) — genuinely good quality, excellent for families and budget travel. ¥5,000–10,000: Counter restaurants with set lunch menus or affordable dinner sets — good fish, proper technique. ¥15,000–30,000: Serious omakase counters with aged fish and seasonal specialties. ¥30,000–80,000+: Top-tier counters (Saito, Harutaka, Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi) — reservation required months ahead, extraordinary experience.