Okunoshima (大久野島) carries two identities: a peaceful island overrun with friendly rabbits, and a site of dark WWII history where Japan secretly produced chemical weapons. Both are worth knowing; the rabbits make the visit undeniably delightful.
The Rabbits
Approximately 700–1,000 rabbits live freely on the 4-kilometer island. They show no fear of humans — having been fed by visitors for decades — and will run toward you, climb on your feet, and accept pellets directly from your hand. Rabbits are genuinely everywhere: emerging from bushes, sitting on paths, clustering near the ferry terminal in anticipation of arriving tourists. Rabbit pellets are sold on the ferry and at the island's hotel and camp store. Avoid feeding them vegetables or bread (stick to commercial rabbit pellets for their health).
Historical Context
Okunoshima was used by the Imperial Japanese Army from 1929 to 1945 to secretly produce chemical weapons including mustard gas, phosgene, and lewisite. The island was kept off maps and officially didn't exist. After the war, American forces dismantled the facilities; the Poison Gas Museum on the island documents this history soberly. The ruins of the production facilities, warehouses, and fortifications are visible throughout the island — overgrown but substantial.
Visiting Okunoshima
The island is in Hiroshima prefecture, accessible by ferry from Tadanoumi port (10 minutes, ¥310) or Ōmishima (for cycling visitors). The only accommodation is the休暇村大久野島 (Kyukamura Okunoshima) resort hotel — pleasant rooms with excellent seafood meals. Day trips from Hiroshima (1.5 hours by train to Tadanoumi, then ferry) are feasible but overnight stays allow morning access before day-trippers arrive. The island is car-free; explore by foot or rental bicycle (¥600/day at the hotel).
What to Bring
Rabbit pellets (essential — the rabbits know visitors bring them and will mob you without them), water (the island has limited facilities), comfortable shoes for walking the rough island roads, and a camera. Wear clothes you don't mind getting rabbit fur on. The island's café and hotel restaurant serve meals, but options are limited outside meal hours.
