Food & Drink

Japanese Highball Culture: Why Whisky and Soda Is an Art Form Here

By Kenji Tanaka · 2025-05-01

Japanese Highball Culture: Why Whisky and Soda Is an Art Form Here

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Order a whisky highball at a serious Japanese bar and watch the process: a tall glass is filled with hand-carved ice, chilled until frosted, any water poured off, a precise measure of Suntory Kakubin poured over the ice (not stirred — cold preservation takes priority), then highly carbonated soda water poured gently down the glass side to preserve bubbles. The drink is turned once, gently, with a long spoon. The result is the best highball you've ever tasted.

The Highball Renaissance

Whisky consumption in Japan collapsed in the 1990s as beer and shochu took over. Suntory's marketing campaign beginning in 2008, featuring the "Kakuhai" (Kaku highball) — Kakubin whisky and soda — served in precisely chilled tall glasses at izakayas and casual restaurants, single-handedly revived Japanese whisky drinking. By making highballs the trendy izakaya order rather than beer, Suntory also introduced millions of Japanese to whisky as a category.

The Perfect Technique

Japanese highball standards: Glass — tall, thin-walled, pre-chilled. Ice — large, clear, slow-melting (Japanese bars take ice seriously; some use hand-carved blocks from 50kg blocks). Ratio — approximately 1:4 (whisky:soda) at most izakayas; more whisky-forward at specialist bars. Soda — highly carbonated, poured gently to preserve bubbles. Stir — minimal, once, to integrate rather than agitate. The goal is a cold, carbonated drink where the whisky's flavor is lifted and extended by the bubbles rather than diluted.

Highball Bars

Beyond standard izakayas, Japan has specialist highball bars. Suntory's own bar in Ginza (The Bar) showcases premium Yamazaki and Hibiki highballs made with extraordinary ice and technique. Sapporo beer garden's highball counter serves an Hokkaido-specific version. Most yakitori restaurants now offer a "tori-aezu highball" (highball to start) as the default opening drink.

Which Whisky?

For a standard highball, Suntory Kakubin (yellow label, widely available in bottles) is the traditional choice — not premium whisky but well-suited to the format. Nikka's Black Clear blended whisky is another budget-appropriate option. For a premium highball, Yamazaki 12-year or Hakushu 12-year work beautifully with the highball format, their fruit and herbal notes amplified by carbonation.

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