While Edo's successor Tokyo was remade repeatedly by earthquakes, fires, and WWII, the merchant town of Kawagoe 30km to its northwest survived relatively intact. Walking the Kurazukuri Street — lined with mud-walled black clay storehouse buildings (kura) from the Edo period — you genuinely feel transported to merchant Japan of the 17th century.
Kurazukuri Street
The main attraction is the 500-meter Kurazukuri no Machi (clay storehouse district) — a street of two-story kura buildings that survived the 1893 great fire because their thick clay walls resisted the flames. Now housing everything from traditional sweets shops to green tea cafés and craft stores, the architecture is extraordinary — black-plastered walls, heavy wooden shutters, and tile roofs create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the Tokyo area. Most visitors spend 2–3 hours exploring the district.
Toki no Kane: The Bell Tower
Kawagoe's symbol is the Toki no Kane (鐘つき堂) — a 16-meter wooden bell tower that has stood at the entrance to the old merchant district since the 1600s. The bell rings four times daily (6am, noon, 3pm, 6pm) and has been doing so for over 350 years. The current tower structure dates from 1893 (after the great fire). It's non-photogenic from the front but distinctive from the sides, framed against the surrounding kura buildings.
Candy Lane: Kashiya Yokocho
A short walk from the kura district, Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Lane) is a small alley lined with old-fashioned candy and snack shops selling traditional Japanese sweets in paper bags and boxes. This was Kawagoe's entertainment quarter for children a century ago; today adults visit for nostalgia and photo opportunities. Stick candy, mochi, and senbei (rice crackers) are the main draws.
Sweet Potato Culture
Kawagoe has been famous for sweet potatoes (satsumaimo) since the Edo period, when they were one of the most important crops grown near Tokyo. Today the sweet potato theme permeates the city: sweet potato ice cream, sweet potato cheesecake, sweet potato chips, sweet potato shochu (potato liquor), and baked sweet potato shops line the tourist routes. Kawagoe sweet potato products make excellent edible souvenirs.
Getting There
Kawagoe is 30 minutes from Ikebukuro station on the Tobu Tojo Line (¥470 on the limited express; ¥480 on the regular express) or 49 minutes from Shinjuku on the Seibu Shinjuku Line to Hon-Kawagoe. A 1-day pass covering round trip and local buses is available. The sights are clustered within walking distance of Hon-Kawagoe or Kawagoe stations — no rental vehicle needed.
