Destinations

Matsushima: Japan's Pine-Covered Islands and Ancient Temples

By Kenji Tanaka · 2025-05-01

Matsushima: Japan's Pine-Covered Islands and Ancient Temples

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Matsushima Bay contains 260 small pine-covered islands rising from calm waters. Since the haiku master Matsuo Basho visited in 1689 and wrote that Matsushima was so beautiful it rendered him speechless (leaving the page in his travel diary blank), it has been considered one of Japan's three most famous views.

The Bay and Islands

The islands of Matsushima Bay were formed by rising sea levels after the last ice age, creating a distinctive landscape of eroded volcanic tuff pillars crowned with wind-shaped Pinus thunbergii pines. The most iconic views are from the four pavilions positioned around the bay: Saigyo Modoshi no Matsu Park, Godaido Hall (on a small island connected by wooden bridges), Entsuin Temple garden, and Kanrantei (a tearoom gifted by Toyotomi Hideyoshi). Each provides a different perspective on the bay's islands.

Zuiganji Temple

Zuiganji is the spiritual centerpiece of Matsushima — one of Japan's most important Zen temples, founded in 828 CE. The approach through ancient cedars and caves carved with Buddhist figures creates an atmosphere of austere beauty. The main hall, rebuilt under Date Masamune in 1609, is designated a National Treasure. The connected Entsuin shrine, built by Masamune's grandson, contains a beautiful garden with a stone lantern and the tomb of the young lord.

Boat Tours

50-minute pleasure cruises through the bay depart from Matsushima Pier regularly (¥1,500). The bay's natural breakwater effect from the islands protected Matsushima from the worst of the 2011 tsunami damage, preserving much of what makes it beautiful. From the water, you can see the full sweep of forested islands and appreciate the bay's extraordinary geography.

Matsushima Oysters

Matsushima Bay's clean, nutrient-rich water produces excellent oysters, and oyster farming is the area's main industry. From November through March, oyster vendors along the main street grill oysters over charcoal and sell them for ¥100–200 each — extremely fresh, slightly briny, deeply satisfying. The combination of historic temples, beautiful scenery, and excellent seafood makes Matsushima ideal for a leisurely half-day.

Getting There

Matsushima-Kaigan station on the JR Senseki Line is 40 minutes from Sendai (¥410). From Sendai, sightseeing trains with larger windows (Miraito) make the journey more pleasant. Alternatively, take a ferry from Hon-Shiogama (20 minutes by train from Sendai on the JR Senseki-Tohoku Line) for a scenic one-way approach to Matsushima by water — highly recommended.

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