Sendai is the largest city in the Tohoku region — a modern, livable city with a rich feudal history as the domain of Date Masamune, Japan's most dramatic regional lord. Matsushima Bay, 30 minutes away, is traditionally counted among Japan's three great views (nihon sankei) — a bay of over 200 pine-covered islands of extraordinary natural beauty. Together they make for one of Japan's most rewarding destinations outside the main tourist circuit.
Matsushima Bay
The bay's 260 small pine-covered islands emerge from calm water in compositions that change with every viewing angle and every hour of light. The poet Basho visited in 1689 and famously found himself speechless — his haiku about Matsushima is blank in some versions, suggesting the landscape exceeded language. Boat tours of the bay (45–50 minutes, ¥1,500) pass through the islands at water level; the views from the shore are equally fine.
Zuigan-ji Temple in Matsushima is one of the finest Zen temples in the Tohoku region — founded in 828 AD, reconstructed in 1609 by Date Masamune, with carved caves in the rock approaching the main gate. Entry ¥700. The nearby Kanrantei pavilion (a teahouse relocated from Sendai Castle by Masamune) has the bay view that defines Matsushima.
Access: JR Senseki-Tohoku Line from Sendai to Matsushima-kaigan, 25 minutes, ¥400.
Sendai City
Zuihoden Mausoleum: The mausoleum of Date Masamune — a flamboyant Azuchi-Momoyama style structure with lavish decoration, rebuilt after wartime destruction based on original records. The surrounding forested hilltop contains the mausoleums of subsequent Date lords. Entry ¥570. Masamune's skeleton and personal effects are in the adjacent museum, revealing the famous golden prosthetic eye he wore after losing his right eye to smallpox as a child.
Sendai Castle Ruins (Aoba Castle): Only the stone walls remain of the castle, but the hilltop position offers excellent views of the city and — on clear days — toward Matsushima and the Pacific Ocean. The Gokoku Shrine on the grounds includes a bronze statue of Date Masamune on horseback in his characteristic crescent-mooned helmet.
Jozenji-dori Avenue: A zelkova-lined boulevard in central Sendai that becomes one of Tohoku's finest autumn foliage views in November. The same avenue is the center of the Tanabata Matsuri decorations in August.
Tanabata Matsuri (August 6–8)
Sendai's Tanabata festival is Japan's largest and most elaborate celebration of the star festival — the mythological meeting of two stars across the Milky Way. The shopping arcades of central Sendai are hung with enormous 10-metre bamboo decorations of paper streamers in seven prescribed types. The evening of August 5th has a fireworks display (100,000 spectators) before the main festival. One of Japan's most spectacular festival decorations.
Getting There
Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai: 90 minutes, ¥11,000. From Tokyo, Sendai makes an excellent base for further Tohoku exploration: Hiraizumi (UNESCO World Heritage, 50 minutes south), Yamadera temple (1 hour west), and Akiu Onsen (30 minutes south) are all day-trip accessible.
Sendai Food
Gyutan (beef tongue): Sendai's signature dish — grilled beef tongue served with barley rice, oxtail soup, and pickled vegetables. The texture is more tender than expected. Available at specialist restaurants throughout the city; Tasuke near Sendai Station is the oldest and most famous. ¥2,500–¥4,000 for a proper set.