Cycling the Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) means pedaling across suspension bridges — some of the world's longest — over the shimmering Seto Inland Sea, descending into island villages scented with mandarin oranges, and climbing back up for another bridge, another view, another island. It's one of Asia's most celebrated cycling routes, and deservedly so.
The Route
The Shimanami Kaido runs 70 kilometers from Onomichi city (Hiroshima prefecture) to Imabari city (Ehime prefecture, Shikoku), crossing six islands: Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima. Dedicated cycle paths run along the highway shoulders and ramps accessing each bridge. The route is thoroughly signposted in Japanese and English (look for blue lines on the road surface). A fit cyclist completes the full route in one day; a relaxed pace over two days includes island exploration.
The Bridges
Six spectacular bridges connect the islands, each different in design. The Tatara Bridge connecting Ikuchijima and Omishima has the world's third-longest cable-stayed span. The Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge — actually three separate bridges at Oshima's eastern end — crosses a strait famous for its powerful tidal currents, creating spectacular views of swirling water below. Cycling across these engineering marvels, 50-70 meters above the sea, is the route's defining experience.
Bicycle Rental System
An official rental system with depots at major terminals and on each island allows bikes to be rented at one point and returned at another. City bikes cost ¥1,100/day plus ¥1,100 deposit (refunded on return); electric-assist bikes cost ¥1,500/day. The deposit system means you can cycle one direction only (e.g., Onomichi to Imabari) without needing to return. Return bikes at any rental depot at the destination end.
Island Highlights
Ikuchijima (Setoda): Home to the extraordinary Kosanji Temple — a private temple complex built by a wealthy industrialist, featuring replicas of famous Japanese religious structures and a striking "Hill of Hope" marble sculpture garden. Omishima: The Oyamazumi Shrine contains Japan's largest collection of samurai armor (80% of all designated national treasure armor is here). Innoshima: Hydrangea gardens in June and the Habu Port area's old wooden boats.
Practical Notes
Start from Onomichi for a mostly downhill experience (the elevation gain is slightly greater approaching from Imabari). The route is suitable for casual cyclists — no mountain climbing, just gentle island hills and bridge ramps. Shinkansen connections make start/end points accessible: Shin-Onomichi station (Nozomi) is 15 minutes from the ferry port; Imabari has express buses to Matsuyama (35 minutes) and then shinkansen connections from Okayama.
