A sumo tournament (honbasho) begins at 8am with the lowest-ranked wrestlers and builds toward the dramatic makuuchi (top division) bouts starting around 2:30pm, climaxing with the day's final bout between the yokozuna and an elite opponent at around 6pm. Attending a full day is one of Japan's great sports experiences.
Tournament Schedule
Six honbasho are held annually, each lasting 15 days: January (Tokyo, Ryogoku Kokugikan), March (Osaka, Edion Arena), May (Tokyo, Ryogoku Kokugikan), July (Nagoya, Dolphins Arena), September (Tokyo, Ryogoku Kokugikan), and November (Fukuoka, Fukuoka Convention Center). Tokyo tournaments are most accessible for visitors; January, May, and September tournaments at Ryogoku are ideal.
Tickets and Seating
Four types of seating exist: Masu-seki (floor box seats, 4 people per box) — the most atmospheric option, close to the ring, eating and drinking while watching. Costs ¥9,000–12,000 per person. Chair seats (second level) — individual assigned seats, ¥3,800–14,800 depending on proximity. Day seats (unreserved, limited) — released on tournament day at the venue, ¥2,200 for unreserved upper level. Buy tickets through the Japan Sumo Association website or Ticket Pia. Box seats typically sell out months in advance; single chair seats are more available.
Arriving Early
Arrive by 10–11am to watch the juryo (second division) bouts and experience the building gradually filling with atmosphere. The keiko (practice) sessions end in the morning — arriving by 9am at Ryogoku allows watching warm-up exercises outside the building. The torikumi (bout program) posted at the entrance shows the day's match schedule. All wrestlers compete once per day.
The Pre-Bout Ceremony
Top-division bouts involve elaborate pre-bout ritual: the shiko (leg-stomping to drive evil from the ring), chirichozu (clapping and opening arms to show no weapons), and shikiri (the approach and reset sequence). Wrestlers may repeat the shikiri multiple times — this is not stalling but a ritualized preparation lasting up to 4 minutes for the highest ranks. The gyoji (referee) in colorful ceremonial robes and tasseled hat announces bouts using classical Japanese.
Food at the Tournament
Ryogoku Kokugikan has an excellent basement food area — chanko-nabe (the hot pot stew wrestlers eat to build mass) is the traditional choice, available as a set meal. Bento boxes representing each stable (sumo team) are sold in the lobby. Beer, sake, and snacks are sold throughout. Eating and drinking while watching from masu-seki boxes is entirely normal and encouraged.
