Destinations

Takamatsu: Gateway to Shikoku and Japan's Greatest Garden

By Kenji Tanaka · 2025-05-01

Takamatsu: Gateway to Shikoku and Japan's Greatest Garden

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Takamatsu doesn't appear on many international itineraries, which makes it excellent. The Kagawa prefecture capital is the transportation hub for Shikoku island, but it's also a destination in its own right — home to what many consider Japan's most beautiful garden, Japan's most beloved udon tradition, and a launchpad for the extraordinary art islands of the Seto Inland Sea.

Ritsurin Garden

Ritsurin Garden (栗林公園) was constructed by successive Takamatsu lords over 100 years beginning in the early 17th century, and is widely considered Japan's finest example of a kaiyushiki (promenade-style) garden. Unlike many famous Japanese gardens, Ritsurin is genuinely large — 75 hectares — and a 2-hour walk reveals constantly changing compositions of ponds, stone bridges, pavilions, and carefully shaped pine trees (over 1,400 pines, each individually maintained). Mount Shiun in the background provides "borrowed scenery" that frames the garden against a mountain backdrop. Entry ¥420 — extraordinary value.

Sanuki Udon

Kagawa prefecture (historically called Sanuki) is Japan's udon heartland — the prefecture with the highest per-capita udon consumption in the country, with approximately one udon shop per 2,000 residents. Sanuki udon has a distinct character: thick, very firm, and pleasantly chewy noodles served in a light, slightly sweet dashi broth, often with tempura. The most local way to eat is at a self-service udon shop — you pick up noodles in broth from a counter, choose toppings yourself, and pay by the component. Prices: ¥250–600 for a full bowl.

Art Island Access

Takamatsu is the main ferry point for the art islands of the Seto Inland Sea — Naoshima (the internationally famous contemporary art island), Teshima, Shodoshima (olive groves and Kabuki), and others. Regular ferries depart from Takamatsu Sunport ferry terminal. The Setouchi Triennale international art festival, held every three years in odd-numbered years, transforms these islands into an extraordinary open-air museum.

Takamatsu Castle

Takamatsu Castle (玉藻城) is one of Japan's three major water castles — built directly on the sea, its moat filled with seawater. While the main keep no longer stands, the remaining walls, turrets, and water gate create a distinctive composition over the bay. The castle grounds are public park accessible year-round (¥200 for the inner area).

Getting There

From Okayama on the JR Sanyo Main Line/Shinkansen, the Marine Liner to Takamatsu crosses the Seto Ohashi bridge in about 1 hour (¥1,490; shinkansen + Marine Liner from Shin-Osaka: about 2 hours, ¥7,000). From Tokyo, JR Pass holders can take the Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama and connect. High-speed ferries from Kobe reach Takamatsu in 4 hours 15 minutes for a scenic alternative.

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