An izakaya is a Japanese pub where locals gather to drink, eat, and socialize. Unlike formal restaurants, izakayas are casual, lively, and perfect for experiencing Japanese culture in its most relaxed form. If you want to understand how Japanese people actually eat and drink outside of work, the izakaya is essential.
What is an Izakaya?
The word "izakaya" literally means "sake shop stay"—historically, people would gather at sake shops to drink and eat small plates. Modern izakayas are casual establishments serving alcohol, beer, sake, and shochu alongside affordable, shareable small plates.
Izakaya characteristics:
- Casual, energetic atmosphere
- Group-friendly with shared plates
- Open late (many stay open until midnight or 2 AM)
- Generally cash-based (increasingly accepting cards)
- Often cramped counter seating mixed with small tables
- Friendly, loud environment with patrons singing, laughing, and toasting
Walking Into Your First Izakaya
When you arrive, you'll typically encounter this sequence:
- Wait to be seated: Don't seat yourself. Stand near the entrance and wait for staff.
- Greeting: Staff will say "Irasshaimase!" (いらっしゃいませ!) = "Welcome!" Respond with a smile and nod.
- Seating: They'll show you to a seat (counter, table, or booth).
- Menu and drinks: You'll receive a menu and a small towel. The towel is for wiping your hands before eating.
Ordering at the Izakaya: Step by Step
First: The Drink Order
At most izakayas, you order drinks immediately upon sitting. This is different from Western bars where you order food after drinks.
Common first drinks:
- "Biru kudasai" (ビールください) = "Beer, please"
- "Sake hiretsu kudasai" (酒一合ください) = "Sake (1 flask), please"
- "Chuhai kudasai" (チューハイください) = "Chuhai, please" (fruity alcoholic soda)
- "Oolong cha kudasai" (烏龍茶ください) = "Oolong tea, please" (non-alcoholic)
Beer sizes:
- Small (chu): ¥400–¥600
- Large (dai): ¥600–¥900
Sake sizes:
- One flask (hitofure): ¥600–¥1,200 (about 2-3 shots)
Second: The Food Order
After drinks arrive, you're ready to order food. Unlike formal restaurants, you don't need to order a "meal"—order 3-5 small plates to share among your group.
Key phrase: "Chiisai sabisu kudasai" (小さいサービスください) = "Small servings, please" (if ordering alone)
How to order:
- Point at the menu or describe the dish
- Say the name of the dish: "Edamame onegaishimasu" (枝豆お願いします)
- Specify quantity: "Futatsu kudasai" (二つください) = "Two, please"
Best Dishes to Order at an Izakaya
Vegetable Dishes
Edamame (枝豆): Boiled soybeans in the pod, salted. The ultimate izakaya starter.
- Price: ¥300–¥500
- How to eat: Pop the bean from the pod into your mouth; discard the pod
Tori Karaage (鶏唐揚げ): Crispy fried chicken chunks, perfectly seasoned and juicy inside.
- Price: ¥600–¥900
- Why order: Addictive, shareable, pairs with any drink
Gyoza (ぎょうざ): Pan-fried pork dumplings, crispy on one side.
- Price: ¥500–¥800 for 5-6 pieces
- Pro tip: Dip in the soy-vinegar mixture provided; add a touch of chili oil
Hiyatakoyaki (冷やし蛸焼き): Chilled octopus balls. Summer specialty.
- Price: ¥600–¥900
- When to order: June-August
Meat and Seafood Dishes
Yakitori (焼き鶏): Grilled chicken skewers. Order varieties: "Moriawase" = mixed selection.
- Price: ¥200–¥400 per skewer
- Ask for: "Tare" (sweet soy) or "shio" (salt) —try both
Torikara Nuggets (鶏からナゲット): Chicken nuggets Japanese-style—crispy outside, juicy inside.
- Price: ¥700–¥1,000
Horumon Yaki (ホルモン焼き): Grilled offal (intestines, hearts, liver). An acquired taste but beloved by locals.
- Price: ¥800–¥1,200
- Pro tip: Don't ask what part of the animal it is—just enjoy it
Tsukune (つくね): Ground chicken meatballs, often with quail egg on top.
- Price: ¥200–¥350 per skewer
Shrimp Mayo (エビマヨ): Fried shrimp tossed in creamy mayo-based sauce.
- Price: ¥700–¥1,000
Sashimi (刺身): Fresh raw fish, often the day's catch.
- Price: ¥900–¥1,500 for a platter
- Ask: "Kyo no osusume nani desu ka?" (今日のお勧めは何ですか?) = "What's recommended today?"
Tofu and Vegetable
Agedashi Tofu (揚げ出し豆腐): Fried tofu in a sweet-salty dashi broth. Comfort food.
- Price: ¥500–¥700
Yasai Itame (野菜炒め): Stir-fried vegetables with garlic.
- Price: ¥600–¥900
Okra with Bonito Flakes (オクラ鰹節): Chilled okra topped with dancing bonito flakes and soy sauce.
- Price: ¥400–¥600
Noodles and Carbs
Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き): Savory pancake with egg, cabbage, meat. Split into slices.
- Price: ¥800–¥1,200
- Note: Already divided for sharing
Takoyaki (たこ焼き): Octopus balls, crispy outside with a molten center.
- Price: ¥600–¥900
Yakisoba (焼きそば): Stir-fried noodles with cabbage and sauce. Filling side dish.
- Price: ¥700–¥1,000
Izakaya Drinking Culture Explained
Understanding the Toasting Tradition
When you're with a group, expect toasts. This is social protocol, not optional.
The standard toast:
- Everyone raises their glass
- Someone says "Kanpai!" (かんぱい!) = "Cheers!"
- Everyone clinks glasses and drinks
Pro tip: If you don't drink alcohol, it's completely acceptable to toast with an alcoholic drink in hand and not drink it, or to use tea instead. Say "Arukoru wa nomasen" (アルコールは飲みません) = "I don't drink alcohol."
Common Drinks at Izakayas
Beer (Biru):
- Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Ebisu are the main brands
- ¥400–¥900 depending on size and location
Sake (酒):
- Served warm or cold depending on season and grade
- ¥600–¥2,000 per flask
- Ask "Atatakai desu ka, tsumetai desu ka?" (温かいですか、冷たいですか?) = "Warm or cold?"
Chuhai (チューハイ):
- Shochu + fruit juice in a can or glass
- ¥400–¥700
- Light, refreshing, approachable for first-time visitors
Shochu (焼酎):
- Distilled spirit stronger than sake
- Often mixed with water or soda (mizuwari or soda wari)
- ¥600–¥1,500 for a glass
Highball (ハイボール):
- Japanese whisky + soda water
- ¥500–¥1,000
- Hugely popular among salarymen
Nonalcoholic options:
- Oolong tea (烏龍茶): ¥200–¥400
- Yuzu soda (ゆず): ¥300–¥500
- Ramune (ラムネ): ¥200–¥400
Izakaya Etiquette and Customs
DO:
- Toast heartily and often (Kanpai!)
- Share plates—it's meant to be communal
- Try everything offered to you, even unfamiliar items
- Thank the staff enthusiastically ("Gochisousama deshita!")
- Engage with other patrons if they speak to you (it's friendly, not aggressive)
- Take off your shoes if there's a raised tatami mat area
- Pay attention to group dynamics—refill others' glasses when they're running low
DON'T:
- Don't pour your own drink if others are around; let someone pour for you (and return the favor)
- Don't say "Itadakimasu" at izakayas like you would at formal restaurants (it's too formal)
- Don't refuse food or drink outright—politely accept, taste, then leave it
- Don't leave early without acknowledging others
- Don't get excessively drunk and loud (unless the group is doing it together)
- Don't take photos of food without asking nearby patrons
- Don't split the check by individual dishes; everyone contributes equally
How to Order with Confidence: Useful Phrases
Before eating:
- "Osusume wa nani desu ka?" (お勧めは何ですか?) = "What do you recommend?"
- "Kyou no tokuten nani desu ka?" (今日の特典何ですか?) = "What's today's special?"
- "Karai desu ka?" (辛いですか?) = "Is it spicy?"
- "Sakana arimasu ka?" (魚ありますか?) = "Do you have fish?"
Ordering:
- "Kore to kore kudasai" (これとこれください) = "I'll have this and this"
- "Hitotsu onegaishimasu" (一つお願いします) = "One of this, please"
- "Futari noriyo" (二人乗り預) = "Two servings, please"
More drinks:
- "Ominage kudasai" (お代替えください) = "Another round, please"
- "Denki kudasai" (電気ください) = "The check, please" (literally "electricity," but used for the bill)
At the end:
- "Gochisousama deshita" (ごちそうさまでした) = "Thank you for the meal" (said while leaving)
Regional Izakaya Variations
Tokyo Izakayas
Tokyo izakayas are energetic, crowded, and trend-focused. Expect modern twists on traditional dishes.
Characteristics:
- Seasonal specials change frequently
- Modern fusion dishes
- Prices: ¥3,000–¥5,000 per person
- Popular areas: Yurakucho, Shinjuku, Shibuya
Osaka Izakayas
Osaka has a reputation for louder, more boisterous izakayas. The food leans toward Osaka specialties like okonomiyaki and takoyaki.
Characteristics:
- Friendlier, more talkative staff and patrons
- Okonomiyaki and takoyaki on every menu
- Prices: ¥2,500–¥4,000 per person
- Popular areas: Shinchi, Dotonbori
Kyoto Izakayas
Kyoto izakayas preserve more traditional atmosphere and seasonal ingredients. Often located in wooden machiya (traditional townhouses).
Characteristics:
- Seasonal, local ingredients emphasized
- Quieter, more refined than Tokyo/Osaka
- Prices: ¥3,500–¥5,500 per person
- Popular areas: Gion, Pontocho
How Much Will You Spend?
Budget izakaya (¥2,000–¥3,500 per person):
- Multiple small plates + 2-3 drinks
- Expect: Popular chains, casual areas, consistent quality
- Examples: Torikizoku, Hachiya
Mid-range izakaya (¥3,500–¥6,000 per person):
- High-quality ingredients, skilled cooking
- Expect: More variety, better atmosphere, popular local chains
- Examples: Yakitori Alley locations, neighborhood favorites
Premium izakaya (¥6,000–¥10,000+ per person):
- Rare ingredients, exceptional execution
- Expect: Counter seating with views, personal attention, premium alcohol selection
Top Izakaya Experiences by City
Tokyo
Yurakucho Izakaya Alley (有楽町): Multiple tiny izakayas packed into one alley. Prices ¥2,500–¥4,000. Arrive before 5 PM to avoid massive queues.
Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁): Historic izakaya alley in Shinjuku with decades-old shops. Yakitori and local favorites. ¥2,000–¥3,500.
Ebisu Yokocho: Smaller, quieter alley in Ebisu. Prices ¥3,000–¥5,000. Less tourist-heavy than Yurakucho.
Osaka
Shinchi Izakaya District: The heart of Osaka's nightlife. Multiple options, ¥2,500–¥5,000.
Kiji: Famous for okonomiyaki in an izakaya setting. ¥3,000–¥4,500 per person.
Kyoto
Pontocho Alley: Historic geisha district with upscale izakayas. ¥4,000–¥8,000 per person. Reserve in advance.
Gion Izakayas: Mix of casual and upscale, ¥3,000–¥7,000 per person.
Pro Tips for Maximum Izakaya Enjoyment
- Go with a group if possible—izakayas are social, and group dynamics are part of the fun
- Arrive early (before 6 PM) to secure a seat without waiting
- Go on weeknights for cheaper prices and smaller crowds
- Order small plates first, then ask for additions after tasting
- Interact with strangers—Japanese izakaya culture encourages this, and you'll make friends
- Bring cash—many traditional izakayas don't accept cards
- Order the chef's special (tokuten) rather than off-menu items
- Pace yourself on alcohol—pace drinking with food consumption
Common Mistakes First-Time Visitors Make
- Ordering too much food upfront. Order a few items, see what you like, then ask for more.
- Skipping toasts. Don't be that person. Participate in kanpai—it's fun and shows respect.
- Being too quiet. Izakayas are social spaces. Chat with nearby patrons and staff.
- Overpaying. Ask the price of items before ordering, especially specialty items.
- Not understanding group dynamics. If someone orders, everyone orders. If someone toasts, everyone participates.
Bringing It Together
An izakaya is where Japanese culture meets alcohol and good food in its most authentic form. You'll see salarymen unwinding after work, friends celebrating, couples on dates, and families enjoying the casual atmosphere.
Unlike formal restaurants where dining is structured and quiet, izakayas are about loose, joyful socializing. The food is secondary to the experience of being together, drinking, and enjoying good company.
Your first izakaya experience will be noisy, perhaps slightly chaotic, and absolutely unforgettable. Go with an open heart, try everything offered, toast loudly, and embrace the spirit of "kanpai!"
