Sushi in Japan is not one experience but a spectrum — from ¥100-per-plate conveyor belt restaurants to ¥50,000 counter omakase where the chef selects every piece. Understanding the landscape helps you match your budget and appetite to the right experience.
The Main Sushi Formats
Kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt): Plates circulate on a belt; you take what you want, typically ¥100–¥200 per plate. Modern kaiten chains (Sushiro, Kura Sushi, Hamazushi) have touch-screen ordering for fresh items. Completely acceptable for any traveller — often excellent value. Omakase counter: "Leave it to the chef" — you sit at a counter, the chef presents 10–20 pieces in sequence, explaining each. Requires reservation, minimum ¥10,000–¥50,000+. The pinnacle of the experience. Sushi-ya (à la carte counter): Sit at a counter or table, order individual pieces or sets. Mid-range ¥3,000–¥8,000 per person. Best entry point for a proper sushi counter experience without omakase prices. Teishoku sets: Lunch set menus at sushi restaurants — often extraordinary value (¥1,500–¥3,000 for what would cost 3x at dinner).
Types of Sushi
Nigiri: Hand-pressed rice with fish on top — the classic form. Maki: Rolled (seaweed outside) — hosomaki (thin), futomaki (thick), uramaki (rice outside). Temaki: Hand-roll cone — eat immediately before seaweed softens. Chirashi: Scattered sushi — fish over a bowl of seasoned rice, excellent value at lunch. Oshi-zushi: Pressed box sushi — Osaka specialty, layered in a mold.
Seasonal Fish to Know
Spring: Sakura-dai (cherry blossom sea bream), katsuo (bonito). Summer: Aji (horse mackerel), uni (sea urchin — June is peak). Autumn: Sanma (Pacific saury), salmon. Winter: Toro (fatty tuna — premium cuts January–March), fugu (puffer fish, specialist restaurants only). Any good chef will tell you what's in season.
How to Eat at a Sushi Counter
Use your fingers or chopsticks — either is correct. Dip fish-side down (not rice-side) into soy sauce to avoid the rice absorbing too much. Eat nigiri in one or two bites — don't bite halfway through and put it back on the plate. Ginger (gari) between pieces to reset your palate, not as a topping. Wasabi: at high-end restaurants the chef will add the correct amount inside; don't add extra from the condiment tray.
Best Sushi in Tokyo by Budget
Under ¥2,000: Sushiro or Kura Sushi kaiten chains. ¥3,000–¥8,000: Tsukiji Outer Market stalls, or Midori Sushi (Shibuya Hikarie). ¥10,000+: Sushi Saito (3 Michelin stars, near impossible reservation), Sukiyabashi Jiro (the Jiro Dreams of Sushi restaurant, reservation required months ahead). Mid-tier omakase: Many excellent 1-Michelin-star or non-starred omakase counters charge ¥15,000–¥25,000 and are more accessible than the famous names — ask your hotel concierge.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you eat sushi correctly in Japan?
Both hands and chopsticks are acceptable. For nigiri, pick up with fingers or chopsticks and dip the fish side (not the rice) briefly in soy sauce. Eat in one bite if possible. Ginger is a palate cleanser between pieces, not a topping. Wasabi is traditionally applied by the chef — don't add extra unless you want more.
What is the difference between sushi types?
Nigiri: hand-pressed rice topped with fish or seafood. Maki: rice and filling rolled in nori seaweed. Temaki: hand-rolled cone. Chirashi: scattered toppings over a rice bowl. Sashimi: raw fish only, no rice — technically not sushi at all.
How much does sushi cost in Japan?
Kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi: ¥130–300 per plate (2 pieces). Mid-range sushi restaurant: ¥2,000–5,000 per person. High-end omakase sushi: ¥15,000–50,000+ per person. The quality difference between tiers is significant.
What is omakase sushi?
Omakase (おまかせ, 'I leave it to you') means entrusting the chef to decide what to serve based on the day's best fish. The chef presents pieces one at a time at the pace they choose. This is the highest form of the sushi experience and requires a reservation.