Nikko is 2 hours north of Tokyo and offers some of Japan's most ornate historic architecture — the Toshogu shrine complex is deliberately excessive, covered in gold leaf and carvings of animals, plants, and mythological creatures. Combine it with mountain scenery, Japan's most famous waterfall, and a crater lake, and Nikko justifies a full day or overnight trip.
Getting There
Tobu Nikko Line from Asakusa (direct, 2 hrs, ¥1,360 for limited express) — recommended. JR + Tobu connection: JR to Utsunomiya then transfer (covered by JR Pass). The Tobu Nikko Pass (¥4,780 from Asakusa, 2 days) covers train + unlimited buses in Nikko — good value if visiting Chuzenji Lake.
Toshogu Shrine
The mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu — Japan's most lavishly decorated shrine, built in 1617. The complete entry is ¥1,300 (shrine complex) + ¥520 (inner sanctuary/Ieyasu's tomb). Key sights: the Yomeimon Gate (over 500 carvings, nicknamed "Gate of Sundown" because people would stare until dark), the three wise monkeys carving (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil — its original location), the sleeping cat (Nemuri-neko) above the gate to the tomb. Allow 2 hours minimum.
Rinno-ji Temple and Futarasan Shrine
Both adjacent to Toshogu. Rinno-ji: Three enormous gilded Buddha statues (Sanbutsudo Hall) — ¥400, genuinely striking. The Shoyoen strolling garden is excellent in autumn. Futarasan Shrine: The oldest structure in Nikko (782 AD), far less crowded than Toshogu, beautiful cedar avenue approach.
Kegon Falls
Japan's most famous waterfall — 97 metres, dropping over a basalt cliff into a pool. Take the bus from Nikko to Chuzenji-ko (45 min up Iroha-zaka switchbacks). The observation elevator (¥570) descends to base level for the full view. Spectacular in any season; freeze-dried in February.
Lake Chuzenji
A caldera lake at 1,269m altitude — clear blue, surrounded by mountains, excellent for cycling and boat trips. Combine with Kegon Falls on the same trip. The Italian and British embassy villas (lakeside, now public museums) offer unexpectedly interesting architecture and lake views.
Edo Wonderland (Nikko Edomura)
A full recreation of an Edo-period (17th–18th century) village — ninja shows, samurai demonstrations, period costumes for hire, traditional food stalls. Touristy but genuinely fun, especially with children. ¥4,700 entry, 30 min by bus from Nikko station.
Practical Tips
October in Nikko sees Japan's earliest and most dramatic autumn foliage — book accommodation well ahead. The Iroha-zaka switchback road is famously slow on autumn weekends (consider the bus). Start with Toshogu early (before 9am) to beat tour groups.