Ryokan Guide: How to Choose, Book & Experience Traditional Inns

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. It's one of those experiences travelers talk about for years. Here's how to choose one, what to expect, and how to not awkwardly break etiquette.

What Is a Ryokan?

A ryokan is a small hotel (usually 5-30 rooms) with:

• Japanese-style rooms (tatami mats, futon beds)
• Shared or private hot spring (onsen)
• Traditional multi-course dinner (kaiseki)
• Traditional breakfast
• Hospitality-focused service
• Peaceful, garden-like setting

Think: "upscale Japanese traditional inn with hot spring and fancy dinner."

Cost Range: ¥8,000-50,000+ per person per night

Type  ·  Price  ·  Meals  ·  Onsen  ·  Quality

Budget ryokan  ·  ¥8,000-12,000  ·  Included  ·  Shared  ·  Basic

Mid-range ryokan  ·  ¥12,000-25,000  ·  Included  ·  Private option  ·  Good

Upscale ryokan  ·  ¥25,000-50,000+  ·  Included  ·  Private  ·  Excellent

The typical tourist: ¥15,000-25,000 (mid-range, all-inclusive)

What's Included

Most ryokan include:

• [ ] Room (Japanese-style, tatami floor)
• [ ] Dinner (kaiseki multi-course, 7-9 dishes)
• [ ] Breakfast (traditional Japanese, 7-10 dishes)
• [ ] Onsen (hot spring bath access)
• [ ] Tea and snacks in room
• [ ] Yukata (casual robe)

Not included (usually):

• Alcohol/drinks (pay extra)
• Spa treatments (extra, ¥3,000-10,000)

Where to Find Ryokans

Best Locations for Ryokans

Near Hot Springs (Onsen Towns):

• Hakone (near Mount Fuji)
• Kawaguchiko (Mount Fuji views)
• Kinugawa (north Tokyo)
• Atami (near Tokyo)
• Yufuin (Kyushu)
• Beppu (hot spring capital)

Rural/Scenic Areas:

• Takayama (mountain town)
• Kanazawa (coastal)
• Kamakura (near Tokyo)

Near Kyoto/Osaka:

• Arashiyama (Kyoto)
• Miyama (Kyoto mountains)
• Kinosaki (between Osaka and Hiroshima)

Booking Sites

Best ryokan booking sites:

• Booking.com (good selection, reviews)
• Agoda (often has deals)
• Rakuten Travel (Japanese site, many options)
• Japanese inn booking sites (Jalan.net, but Japanese language)
• Direct ryokan websites

Pro tip: Compare prices across sites. Same ryokan might be cheaper on Agoda vs. Booking.

Choosing Your Ryokan

Budget Ryokans (¥8,000-12,000)

What you get:

• Small room, possibly with shared bathroom
• Dinner still multi-course but simpler
• Shared onsen
• Basic service

What to expect:

• Smaller rooms (feels tight)
• Dinner served in common area sometimes
• Shared bathroom (toilet + shower)
• Limited English-speaking staff

Where to find: Small mountain towns, less touristy areas

Good for: Budget-conscious travelers who want the experience

Mid-Range Ryokans (¥12,000-25,000)

What you get:

• Comfortable room (tatami + small bathroom)
• Excellent multi-course dinner
• Private or semi-private onsen
• Good service

What to expect:

• Nice-sized room (spacious enough)
• Dinner in your room or nice dining area
• Private or semi-private hot spring access
• English-speaking staff
• Attention to detail

Where to find: Popular onsen towns (Hakone, Kawaguchiko), near major cities

Good for: Most tourists (best value)

Upscale Ryokans (¥25,000-50,000+)

What you get:

• Spacious, beautifully appointed room
• Luxury multi-course kaiseki dinner
• Private hot spring (sometimes outdoor)
• Exceptional service
• Often: special additions (spa, private guide, etc.)

What to expect:

• Luxury experience (high-end service)
• Dinner in private room
• Private onsen (sometimes in your room)
• English-speaking, attentive staff
• Memorable experience

Where to find: Premium locations (Arashiyama Kyoto, Hakone, Kinosaki)

Good for: Special occasions, splurge trips, once-in-a-lifetime

Booking a Ryokan

When to Book

Advance booking:

• 1-3 months ahead (best availability)
• 2-4 weeks (okay, some sold out)
• 1 week before (risky, limited selection)

Peak seasons (book 3+ months ahead):

• Cherry blossom season (late March-April)
• Golden Week (late April-early May)
• Fall foliage (October-November)
• Winter holidays (Dec 24-Jan 10)

Questions to Ask When Booking

1. "Is dinner in my room or communal dining?" (Both are normal)
2. "What time is dinner/breakfast?" (Usually fixed times, 6-7 PM dinner, 7-8 AM breakfast)
3. "Is onsen private or shared?" (Affects experience)
4. "Can I cancel for free?" (Get refundable option if possible)
5. "Do you have WiFi?" (Most modern ryokans do)
6. "What's the cancellation policy?" (Important if travel dates uncertain)

Payment & Cancellation

Typical policy:

• ¥100-200 USD (~¥15,000-30,000) deposit to confirm
• Balance due at check-in (or pre-pay)
• Cancellation: free if 30+ days before, fees if closer

What to Expect (Day-by-Day)

Arrival (Afternoon, 3-4 PM)

1. Arrive at ryokan
2. Remove shoes at entrance (leave by door)
3. Staff greets you (enthusiastically in Japanese; don't panic)
4. Check-in at front desk
5. Staff escorts you to room (they carry your luggage)
6. Room orientation: bathroom, onsen access, dinner time
7. You change into yukata (casual robe provided)
8. Rest, explore onsen, walk grounds

Dinner (6:00-7:00 PM, Typical)

If in your room:

1. Staff brings first course (soup, appetizer)
2. You eat slowly while next courses are prepared
3. Staff delivers subsequent dishes individually
4. Typically 7-9 courses total
5. Meal lasts 1-2 hours
6. Staff removes dishes and serves tea/dessert

If in communal dining:

• Same dinner, but with other guests
• More social experience
• Less intimate

The dinner is elaborate. It's the highlight. Everything is seasonal, beautiful, and delicious.

Evening

• Soak in onsen before bed (after dinner, 1-2 hours typical)
• Relax in room
• Sleep on futon (surprisingly comfortable)

Breakfast (7:00-8:00 AM, Typical)

• Staff brings breakfast (5-10 dishes)
• Traditional Japanese: rice, miso soup, grilled fish, vegetables, eggs, pickles
• Less formal than dinner
• Eaten in your room or dining hall

Checkout (10:00-11:00 AM)

• Pack belongings
• Leave yukata on futon (staff handles)
• Settle any extra charges (drinks, spa treatments)
• Staff may give gifts or take photos with you (depends on ryokan)
• Leave

Onsen (Hot Spring) Etiquette

How to Use Onsen Properly

1. Undress completely (in changing room, secure valuables)
2. Shower thoroughly (before entering hot spring, essential)
3. Wash hair, body completely (onsen is not for cleaning, respect this)
4. Rinse fully (no soap residue in onsen)
5. Enter hot spring slowly (very hot, 40-45°C typical)
6. Soak for 10-20 minutes (you'll feel amazing)
7. Towel off (in changing room, not outside)

Rules

• No swimsuits (onsen are naked bathing, completely normal)
• No photography (absolutely forbidden, seriously)
• No talking loudly (quiet, peaceful space)
• No splashing (respect others' peace)
• No soap in water (shower first, that's why)

Gender Separation

Most onsen are gender-separated. Some private ryokans offer family/couple bathing.

If You're Uncomfortable

• Some ryokans have private onsen (rent for privacy, ¥2,000-5,000)
• Some offer private bathing times
• Ask staff—they're used to this request

Meals & Dietary Restrictions

Kaiseki Dinner (The Experience)

Kaiseki is high-end Japanese cuisine, artistic and seasonal:

• Each dish is small but exquisite
• Course by course (not all at once)
• Includes: soup, sashimi, grilled fish, vegetables, rice, dessert
• Takes 1-2 hours
• Is an experience, not just food

If You Have Dietary Restrictions

Tell ryokan when booking:

• Vegetarian (possible, inform in advance)
• Allergy (take seriously, inform in advance)
• Dislike specific foods (mention if allergic/intolerant)

Most ryokans accommodate. They need 7-14 days notice for special meals.

Alcohol & Beverages

• Water: free in room
• Tea: included
• Alcohol: extra (¥500-2,000 per drink)
• Coffee/juice: usually extra

Prices are higher than outside (20-30% markup). Budget accordingly.

Ryokan Etiquette

Do

• [ ] Remove shoes at entrance
• [ ] Wear yukata when moving around
• [ ] Be quiet in hallways
• [ ] Thank staff (say "arigatou gozaimasu")
• [ ] Use onsen respectfully
• [ ] Appreciate the meal (eat what you can)
• [ ] Tip only if service was exceptional (leave ¥1,000-2,000 in envelope)

Don't

• [ ] Wear shoes on tatami mats
• [ ] Make noise after 10 PM
• [ ] Rush meals
• [ ] Photograph onsen
• [ ] Leave room a mess
• [ ] Skip onsen (experience the tradition)
• [ ] Complain about things (ryokans do their best)

Is a Ryokan Worth It?

Best For

• Special occasions (honeymoon, anniversary, birthday)
• Experiencing traditional Japan
• Multi-sensory experience (food, bathing, hospitality)
• First-time visitors (bucket list item)

Skip If

• Budget is extremely tight (¥12,000+ is steep)
• You don't care about traditional experience
• Dietary restrictions make accommodation difficult
• You prefer modern comfort (some ryokans are rustic)

Realistic Ryokan Experience (My Take)

I've stayed in ryokans multiple times. Here's honest:

The good:

• Dinner is genuinely amazing
• Hot spring at night is deeply relaxing
• Staff service is attentive (makes you feel cared for)
• The room is peaceful and beautiful
• Breakfast is excellent
• You'll remember this trip

The challenges:

• Very expensive (¥15,000-25,000/night adds up)
• Dinner timing is fixed (can't eat later if hungry earlier)
• Some rooms are quite small
• Quiet atmosphere can feel boring if you want nightlife
• One night is meaningful; multiple nights feels long

My recommendation: Do one night in a mid-range ryokan (¥15,000-20,000) in Hakone or Arashiyama. Experience it. You'll understand why it's iconic. Skip if budget is tight; other accommodations are fine.

Pro Tips

1. Visit during shoulder season (May, September-early October) for better prices
2. Choose near onsen town (Hakone, Kawaguchiko) for authentic hot spring
3. Eat dinner slowly (it's an experience, not a meal)
4. Soak in onsen before bed (sleep like a baby)
5. Take photos of dinner (after first course to capture beauty)
6. Chat with staff (they often have great recommendations)

Budget Ryokan Recommendations

Great value (¥12,000-18,000):

• Hakone: Various mid-range ryokans
• Kawaguchiko: Mount Fuji views, good prices
• Takayama: Traditional town, budget options
• Kanazawa: Coastal ryokans

Booking.com reviews are your friend. Sort by price, read 8-10 reviews, book confidently.

Final Take

A ryokan is a genuinely worthwhile experience. The food is beautiful, the onsen is rejuvenating, and the service is exceptional. It's not a budget choice, but for one night, it's worth the splurge. You'll return home with memories of sitting in a hot spring under the stars, eating the best meal of your trip, and feeling completely cared for.

Book it.