Shikoku — the smallest and least-visited of Japan's four main islands — occupies a particular place in the Japanese imagination: as the site of the Ohenro pilgrimage, a 1,200-kilometer walking route connecting 88 Buddhist temples associated with the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi), it is Japan's most significant living pilgrimage tradition. Roughly 100,000 people complete some portion of the route each year, about 10,000 of them on foot. For non-pilgrims, Shikoku offers dramatic mountain scenery (Iya Valley, Oboke Gorge), Japan's least-crowded major attractions, and a distinctive food culture built on bonito fishing and citrus.
The Ohenro Pilgrimage
The 88-temple circuit around Shikoku is Japan's most important pilgrimage route, associated with the Buddhist monk Kukai (774–835), who was born on Shikoku and traveled the island spreading Shingon Buddhism. Pilgrims — called henro — traditionally walk the full circuit (35–45 days on foot, 1,200km), wearing a white jacket, conical bamboo hat, and carrying a staff said to represent Kukai. The route passes through all four of Shikoku's prefectures.
Most visitors don't walk the full circuit; they drive or take buses between selected temples. The most visited are Temple 1 (Ryozen-ji in Naruto, the traditional start), Temple 51 (Ishite-ji in Matsuyama, notable for its cave passage), Temple 88 (Okuboji in Kagawa, the official end), and the Cape Muroto temples on the Pacific coast.
Walking the full circuit as a foreigner is entirely possible — the henro michi (pilgrim's path) is marked throughout, pilgrim lodges (shukubo) provide accommodation at temples for ¥6,000–8,000/night, and the concept of "osettai" (gift giving to pilgrims) means walkers regularly receive food and drinks from local residents along the route.
Iya Valley
The Iya Valley in Tokushima Prefecture is one of Japan's most dramatic landscapes: a deep V-shaped gorge where the Iya River carved through limestone over millennia, now crossed by vine bridges and lined with traditional thatched farmhouses on nearly vertical slopes. Villages here are only recently accessible by road; for centuries they were reached by narrow paths clinging to the cliff faces.
The main attractions: the Kazurabashi vine bridges (two in the lower valley, one in the upper valley; the upper bridge is less visited and more dramatic), the Oboke and Koboke gorges further downstream (river trips available, March–November, ¥1,080), and the farmhouses available for accommodation at Chiiori Trust (an Edo-period farmhouse restored by Alex Kerr and available for short-term rental — a genuinely extraordinary stay).
Getting there requires either a car (rented from Tokushima City or Kochi) or the limited bus service from Awa-Ikeda Station. A car is strongly recommended.
Matsuyama & Dogo Onsen
Matsuyama is Shikoku's largest city and the main gateway for western Shikoku. Matsuyama Castle — the only surviving original castle tower on Shikoku — sits on a hill above the city, accessible by ropeway or 20-minute climb. The castle interior is modest but the exterior and hill views are excellent.
Dogo Onsen (20 minutes by tram from the city center) is one of Japan's oldest hot spring towns — the main bathhouse, Dogo Onsen Honkan, is a three-story wooden structure from 1894, the model for the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki's "Spirited Away." It was closed for renovation 2019–2023 and is now partially reopened. Even if the main building is still restricted, the surrounding onsen town is charming and several alternative bathhouses are available.
Kochi & Bonito Culture
Kochi Prefecture on the Pacific coast is known for its fresh bonito (katsuo) — specifically "katsuo no tataki," bonito quickly seared over straw flame then served with ponzu and garlic. The flavor is fundamentally different from supermarket tuna — richer, more complex, with a slight smoke. The Kochi Friday Market (Hirome Market) has several stalls serving this alongside Kochi-specific dishes. Kochi is also famous for its yakuza-inspired food culture and the Kochi Yosakoi Festival (August, one of Japan's most energetic dances).
Getting Around Shikoku
Shikoku is connected to Honshu by three bridge systems: Seto Ohashi (Okayama side), Akashi-Kaikyo (Kobe side), and Nishiseto Expressway (Hiroshima/Onomichi side). JR Shikoku operates limited express trains between major cities; the Shimanto River area and Iya Valley require a car. The Shikoku All Line Pass (JR Shikoku, various prices) covers JR trains within the island. Budget 3–5 days minimum to see Shikoku meaningfully.